Catch the Back-to-School Wave
One of my favorite things to do is bodysurf. I remember when my dad taught me in the south Florida Atlantic back in the early, gulp, 1970s. He explained how good timing is everything: it enables you to harness the full force of the swell just as the whitecaps begin to break at the crest of the wave. If you jump too early or scramble to catch up, you’ll miss it: all the puny human exertion you can muster against the wave’s weighty power proves useless if you try to fight it. The trick is to catch the wave just right […]
