Back to School, Zen, and the Art of Bodysurfing
One of my favorite things to do is to bodysurf. I remember when my dad taught me how on a Florida vacation back in the early, gulp, 1970s. He explained how good timing enables you to harness the full force of the swell just as the whitecaps begin to break at the crest of the wave. If you jump too early or scramble to catch up, you’ll miss it: all the puny human exertion you can muster in the face of the wave’s power proves useless if you try to fight it. The trick is to catch the wave just […]
